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Rainy Independence Day

July 4, 2003

Dear Friends and Family,

Happy Independence Day.

However, it was rain, not fireworks, that defined our day. Any hope of visiting the tops of the mountains was lost in the gray cover. We tried a walk or two and discovered it wasn't too bad but only after we made another run to the Lauterbrunnen sporting goods store for a rain jacket for me.

It was OK to be quiet, too, and we read, wrote diaries, and generally took it easy. Late in the afternoon, we decided on a drive over to Gimmelwald, a tourist center one valley east of us. Even in the drizzle, it was a pleasant drive down our valley, with the rushing glacier-fed river and the plodding cog-train keeping us company.

Gimmelwald's valley was more developed, but still no Disney World. The gentle slopes are scattered with ski chalets. The town itself had plenty of bakeries, hotels, restaurants, and t-shirt shops. (This last is our measure of a place where we don't want to stay!) Summer is the second season for this area so, despite the development, it seemed quiet. The huge parking lots around town showed that winter must be a different case entirely, as skiers arrive from all over Europe.

When we drove back through Lauterbrunnen, we drove past a parade of young men marching with over-sized cowbells. They were playing a clanking rhythm and, dressed in black, it seemed almost funereal. We had to stop to see what was going on.

What we found was a town celebration for all the tourists who had chosen Lauterbrunnen for a visit. In Swiss-accented German, French, and English, a town elder introduced the town band, a trio of lace-weavers, dancers, yodelers, an Alpine horn player, and a flag tosser. My camera ran out of batteries before we could record it all so you'll have to take my word for it: the horn and flag duo was a real hit and reputedly very famous in these parts. We could not have asked for a better Fourth of July celebration.

We're still praying for sun tomorrow but resolved to take whatever happens. Today showed that rain can be fine -- especially if it clears enough for the bells to clang, the band to play, and the yodelers to yodel.

Take care and practice flag tossing.

John and Marianne

 

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Here is our end-of-the-road hotel. Our room was in an annex across the road.

www.stechelberg.ch

 

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Lauterbrunnen was the nearest village with any shopping. The rain had caused the in-town waterfall to grow.

Here's my stylish new rain jacket.

 

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One of the waterfalls on a walk we took. On this day, it seemed like everything was centered on rain or water!

 

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Marianne standing by the rushing river. The camera lens was fogged because I had to keep it under my jacket. Marianne liked the effect so we say this was planned.

 

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This was the opening of the First Annual Lauterbrunnen Visitors Appreciation Open Air Concert. Really.

Every concert needs a band.

 

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And this is the city official (Mayor?) who welcomed everyone in accented German, French, and English.

 

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Last but not least, the ladies giving a lace-making demonstration. This was the same technique we had seen a month ago in Belgium.

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