November 23 - December 4 written November 24 and later, day by day
Dear Friends and Families,
This is the move
week. By now, we have sold what we can, packed a bit, and
separated junk from treasures. We have had a going away party or
two. We have signed all kinds of paperwork for exporting and
importing a car and all our household goods. We've planned our
first activities in The States. We think we are ahead of the
game, but that may all change in the face of real moving.
Here's our plan-of-the-week, which we will transform into a diary-of-the-week.
Saturday, November 23.
We started the day with our last Saturday breakfast at Burkhard's
Bakery, a tradition we will miss. We thought of possible
replacements in Fresno, but came up empty so far. After that, we
cleaned and rolled up rugs acquired over the years from Turkey,
Azerbaijan, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and who-knows-stan. We look
forward to unrolling them on our nice wood floors in Fresno, a first
step to making the Cambridge Ave house our own.
Four foresters came in and packed up the huge pine tree in our back
yard. We joked that we would bring it over to America for
Christmas. The change to our back yard is dramatic, as the sun
can now reach places that have been shaded for years. I'm sure
our fruit trees will appreciate the light, as well as the absence of a
continuing source of fungus that moves from pine to fruit trees.
We need to ask the new homeowners to take orchard pictures next spring
and summer to see if it made a difference. We will miss our
orchard.
Sunday
Sunday went according to plan. We did a bit of sorting, although
the everything-has-to-be-organized day is creeping up quickly.
The trouble is that, at some point in the next few days, we need to be
100% prepared for packers to come in and ONLY take what we mean for
them to take. That means, among other things, that we need to
have our airplane luggage ready to go a week before the flight, since
we will be staying locally for almost that long. We are not there
yet.
I also changed our flight reservations to remove the post-Christmas
return flight to Germany. It's another sign that our lives are
changing after 15 seasons of returning to Europe for the new year.
The highlight of the day was the scavenger hunt. We had gone
through all the food, liquor and whatnot we will not take with us and
piled it on the kitchen table. We invited friends over to take
what they wanted and it was fun to watch Marilyn, Dieter, Winnie, and
Knut paw through our treasures. They managed to walk away with two
carloads of finds. Afterwards, we had a pleasant chili dinner and
an evening of chatting. We will miss our friends (but not our
"treasures"!)
Monday
Another day mostly according to plan. I gave the cleaners our
last bit, to be picked up Wednesday. Frau Tuschel has been one of
the regulars on our list of shop keepers and it will be another
"disturbance" to shift to someone new.
The check with the movers was half OK. The car people want to
come a day later and this makes me nervous, since we can not delay the
flight. One day later is OK, but more isn't doable. I would
be a nervous wreck if we held our car until the last minute and,
besides, it casts $30 per day to park in Nuremberg.
Dinner at Bei Ginos with Ushi and Georg was fun. I think they are
the only people with whom we socialize where there is no English
spoken and it works mostly due to their patience with our German
limits. Nice folks and we are counting on them to visit us in
Fresno next fall. For that, we will need to keep up on our
German, not a bad thing I suppose.
(I have to remember to take pictures to illustrate these daily entries.)
Tuesday
The plan-of-the-day worked again. Despite that, Marianne and I
both are nervous that we have forgotten something very important.
Until we discover what it is, we will just keep on.
Our self-packing proceeds. Rugs are all vacuumed and rolled
up. I filled four boxes with office things and will let the
professionals finish the rest. We have set out the clothes we
will use for the next two months, just like on one of our road trips,
except the 747 will hold bigger bags than the Boxster did.
Marianne was looking for one or two more Chinese antiques, so we went
out to Kurt Döllinger Antique's in Rimbach, 40 minutes away. We
have been buying bits and pieces here for six years, but we came up
empty this trip. We will always remember the huge range of junque
here and, I suppose, we could always have a container full sent over to
Fresno to start our own antique store. Not.
This was our goal.

All this stuff, and no more little stools.
   
Strange stuff a specialty
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In the afternoon, I did my scavenger delivery to Marilyn, an almost-new
white garden umbrella. Just a few more treasures remain to find
good homes. After that, it was another "last", a last trip to
Herr Dr. Diekmann, the dermatologist. As a fair-skinned senior,
who apparently had too much time in the sun, dermatologist visits have
become regular events. Hats. Every male of Norwegian
descent must wear a hat. (B & G?)
Meanwhile, Marianne was having fun at Friseur Scharf, where Matthias
did a final cut. Looks good. And, from the pictures I have
seen, it was another pleasant last-event.
Finally, I sent out notices to half of the friends in the DC-area,
laying out our travel-and-visit schedule in early December. This
will be the first of our new approach to travel. Instead of the
churches, castles, and squares that we have been seeing for a decade,
we will shift to visiting friends, and seeing what we can along the
way. We are looking forward to it.
Wednesday
The morning started out frosty and we could not resist a few last yard pictures. Fresno won't have this.
From there, it was more mover-preparation. We have tagged
everything that stays with a bright green "NO", something we hope will
keep us from discovering in Fresno things we don't want to discover in
Fresno. Our goal for the Navtrans guys was to pack up the garage
and the loft. In the end, they did reach the goal, but there are
more boxes and stuff than I would have imagined. I wonder if it
will all fit in our container.
While
I was supervising packers, Marianne had a string of errands to run. She
visited Christiane one more time to settle debts, share a bit of
gossip, and remind Christiane that she needs to visit us next
year. From there it was off to Kathy's to deliver the printer and
to the charity organization to deliver excess office and travel
stuff. We still have lots of excess stuff.
The next errand was a nail appointment at Annalie's., another
long-standing friend. (Ooops, no picture!) With this,
Marianne was properly prepared for the Christmas socializing.
By then it was late, so we worked in one more social visit rather than
prepare dinner. We stopped for Chinese food at "Bamboo", the
restaurant run by the family whose two daughters were Marianne's
English after-school students for a few years. Their mom, Mai,
was working, as always, and greeted us cheerfully as she does.
When we left, she got our contact information, just in case she or the
kids happen to go to California. Could happen.
Then, it was collapse at home. I built my last fire in the
kachelofen. We looked around and knew tomorrow our home would no
longer be livable. Sad.
Thursday Thanksgiving
in America, but a regular work day here in Bavaria, so that meant more
packing. The Navtrans guys invaded the house with a vengeance.
From attic to living room our belongings were packed or wrapped or
both. Our own plastic boxes got another layer of bubble wrap,
protecting the plastic I guess. They didn't finish everything,
but they have another day. Overall, the job looks very
professional and we have hope our things will arrive in good shape.
For Thanksgiving lunch, we had sausage and schnitzel sandwiches at a
local grocery store, simple food but another taste we will miss.
During lunch, I got a call from a truck driver saying he was ready to
pick up the car. I said "Tuesday, not today!" He wasn't
happy. This started a whole string of phone calls trying to
straighten out the export of our Audi. I'm not sure it ever got
straightened out, but there are still a few days left.
After
watching the last of the day's packing, we had dinner at a local
restaurant, Dorn's, across from Schloss Weissenstein. It was
another nice meal and the family gave us yet another good-bye. It
really has been nice living in a very welcoming village.
Our
last stop was check-in at the Grüner Baum, again friend's
establishment. Rosey gave us room #34, the same one I had spent a
year in while the house was being renovated in 2005 and 2006. It
felt a bit like going home.
We are almost out of our village and it seems more and more
melancholy. Just a few more goodbyes and we will be on to our new
life.
Friday
A very quick update. Pictures mostly. Story later?
The day started with a nice Grüner Baum breakfast and greetings from Betty.

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Over at the house, there were boxes, long-lost dirt, one last place for us, and the start of 350 labeled boxes.
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When,
at the last minute, we found out we could not send food, Dale and Peter
came by to help find a good home for our foodstuff. Dale also
managed to pick up some "wonderful" old wood!
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The big red "High Cube 40-foot" container arrived and looked huge, but huge enough?
    
I did not think we would fit inside, but the Navtrans guys managed a
great packing job. No extra space to rattle and everything we
wanted is on its way.
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The house is spooky. Tomorrow we will clean.
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Dinner
was Friedrich's good Frankish cooking with another visit from
Betty. Georg and Hermina also surprised us by stopping by for a
drink and lots of good conversation. We will miss all these
friends
  
(Need to fix the color here!)
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Saturday
 This
was by far our busiest and most stressful day. We started out
with a 6am swing by the house to start cleaning. That's OK,
because sleeping late was out of the question - far too much to think
and worry about. At 7:30, we went back to the Grüner Baum for
breakfast. We will miss good German breakfast buffets and we will
specifically miss our home town Gasthaus ("guest house" - small German
family hotels).
By 8:30, we were back at work cleaning, and I do mean WORK. We
always prided ourselves at having a very clean house, but once
furniture is gone, there's lots of accumulated dust and spider
webs. Our goal was to turn over a house to the new owners in a
condition we would appreciate were we on that side of the transition.
(here is a slide show of the final condition, mostly for the Fischer family to see what they are getting.)
After
eight hours of cleaning, it was time for the hard part, saying our
goodbyes. Neighbors Marion and Harald provided a round of coffee
and cake, our first food since breakfast. We enjoyed jabbering in
Germlish, occasionally losing track of just what we were talking
about! A fun couple and we will keep them to their promise of a
visit to Fresno in a year or two.
 From
there, it was around the corner to Annegreth and her family, young
Vanessa and husband Reinhardt. Annegreth has been Marianne's
friend for years, giving her most thorough lessons in hearing and
understanding Frankish. Marianne swears she can understand 60%,
but for me it's closer to 30%. No matter, Annegreth's good cheer
is always understandable.
The
last farewell was the hardest. Gretel, our 85-year-old neighbor,
has been my garden consultant and Marianne's dear friend for our entire
stay here is Pommersfelden. Her decades of farmer life gave her
knowledge that helped us grow our garden and her wisdom of
eight-and-a-half decades in this little valley taught us about our
adopted neighborhood. Marianne and Gretel cried, and I'll admit I
joined them a bit.
Then, we drove out of our valley for the last time, taking with us
years of memories, repeating Dr. Seuss' advice over and over to
ourselves: Don't cry because it's over; Smile because it
happened. It was a quiet half-hour drive down to Nuremberg, where
we would spend our last few German days.
We stayed at Scott and Malinda's apartment, just next to the Pegnitz
River, in one of the prettiest parts of the old city. Pictures
just jumped from the camera! After crossing the walking bridge,
we made our way to the giant Christmas Market, reportedly the largest
in Germany. We had a bratwurst, as required, but could not get
excited about Glühwein, the hot, spiced wine that is most
traditional. We will save that for another part of our time here.
And now we will rest and try to collect ourselves for two months of being on the road.
Sunday For
what seems like the first time in weeks, we have nothing to pack or
clean or arrange and, besides, it is a German Sunday, when activity
options are limited. Mostly, other than church, the tradition is
to walk a bit and eat a lot. We followed tradition and walked ten
minutes up to Hüttn, a restaurant specializing in local, Frankish,
food. Our short walk earned us each a Scheuferla (sp?) dinner,
roughly a kilo (two pounds) of pork shoulder, complete with the
flavorful and fattening skin -- "cracklings" in the American
South. It really was good and would end up being our only meal of
the day.
We rolled out of Hüttn to enjoy a daytime sampling of the Christmas
Market. Just outside the restaurant, we ran across a photo
session of the Christmas princess. This is a highly-sought,
two-year appointment that must put the beautiful princess through
hundreds of sessions such as this and today she suffered with a bright
smile, as required.
Elsewhere, the food and trinkets stalls were already starting.
Like yesterday, we looked, but could not find anything appropriate to
buy. Maybe one more run and we will get into the holiday buying
spirit.
The afternoon was resting and snoozing in my reading chair, one of my
favorite Sunday duties here in Germany. Will this change to
snoozing in front of TV football in America? Maybe.
Marianne and I also had our first disagreement in quite a long
time. We had been invited by Axel to a concert up in Bamberg, and
I wanted to beg out. She insisted, mostly to live up to a
commitment to our friend of many years. In hindsight, I think I
was (and am) just worried about activities that put us at risk of
"something" going wrong at the last minute, and the hour-long drive up
to Bamberg had become threatening to me. Saturday-evening German
autobahns offer plenty of opportunities for problems.
Fortunately, right and reason won out. We did it her way.
Because it was indeed the right thing to do and, in the end, my ghosts
never made an appearance.
Axel's invitation was to an AIDS Benefit Concert, a traditional
December First event around the world. I must admit that the show
was exceptional, with Axel's choir and a half-dozen very professional
performances by musicians, comedians, and singers. The German
comedy, especially that given in strong Frankish dialect, went passed
us, but we appreciated the music and singing. Thanks Axel!
At the end, it was another good-bye and one more person to hold to his
promise to visit us in California.
Monday
Step
by step we are proceeding toward our new home in America. The day
started with a coffee at Starbucks, just to get us used to again using
this world invader of the hot beverage world. Actually, I look
forward to this chain, unlike most "fast food" places. The
Seattle company has managed to provide a good service, albeit a bit
pricey perhaps.
From there it was a meeting with Frank Heitzer, our real estate
agent. That meeting took almost two hours, although business was
only a relatively small part of it. We ended up chatting about
his life and ours and thoroughly enjoyed the conversation, partly
because we do not need to use German or "special English" with him, but
more because he is just a nice, friendly guy, as well as a thoroughly
professional agent. A good experience for us and we hope to see
him in a visit to California. (Once again, we forgot to get a
souvenir picture, but we have others of Frank.)
 Marianne
needed a bit of shopping, and we walked through the Christmas market to
see if daylight made us more seasonally inspired. It
didn't. However, a lunch stop in the basement of Karstadt
department store did improve our attitude. We ordered 150 grams
each of American fillet, two glasses each of Argentinian Malbec, and
pleasantly killed another two hours. We will miss the Karstadt
eatery, but at least we can get American beef in our new life.
Throughout this whole afternoon, I had been emailing the car-shipping
company to straighten out the mess that whole process had become.
They could no longer pick up our car on Tuesday, only on Thursday, long
after we have flown away. After twenty emails back and forth and
a phone call or two, we arranged a place south of town to park the car
before they pick it up in a couple of days, I hope. We'll
see. Unlike the furniture movers, I have not been impressed with
our choice of car shipment folks.
We rested in the afternoon and then worked to get into the Christmas
spirit. An evening walk along the Pegnitz River made that
possible, as did a cup of spiced wine. This is a tradition we
will miss and it was enough to get us into the mood for successful
market shopping. The river walk afterwards was as nice as at the
start, so we made it "home" in a positive, holiday mood.
Walking toward the action.
  
After a short walk, a short sip.
  
And shopping
  
This BBQ-by-boiling-oil was NOT to our taste.
 
Homeward bound.
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Tuesday
One
more day of "auf Wiedersehen"; see you later. After a late breakfast at
Starbucks, we retrieved our car and headed to the designated ADAC
drop-off place, about 10 km southeast of downtown. We are unfamiliar
with most of Nuremberg, so we had little idea where we were going,
until it finally dawned on us that our goal was right next to Bösner's,
Marianne's favorite art supply store. Anyway, we told the ADAC
people the story and they seemed to have a process for it. They
filled out a little paperwork, took our key, and that was that.
Now we hope the Rinkens trucker really picks up the car on Thursday so
it can meet us in mid-January in Fresno. We'll see.
Meanwhile, we got word from the furniture shipper that our container
(#HDMU6777155) would leave Bremerhaven on the MOL Endurance at 2am on
December 12. The ship schedule shows a New York stop on December
29 and a New Year's Eve passage through the Panama Canal, before it
arrives in Oakland on January 8. We should see it in a few days or a
week after that. The company even gave us a website
where we can track progress. I hope the car-shipper does the
same. (Update: Car is scheduled to leave December 20th
Bremmerhaven on the APL Melbourne, bound for New York on the 29th. Trains after that.)
After car drop-off, Marianne's friend Christiane called and wanted one
more goodbye. She made the drive into town and the artists went
out for a small lunch and last gossip, I'm sure. It was a nice
effort by a special friend.
For dinner, we had a gathering planned at a nearby restaurant, but
first we had Marilyn, Winnie, Dieter, and Knut up to our borrowed
apartment for a bit of wine. (Dale and Peter, the others in our normal
gang, were off to golf in Spain, but we missed them.) Again, the
time flew by with normal, friendly banter.
Etage, our restaurant-goal, was a 15-minute walk along the Pegnitz
river. Most pleasant. At the restaurant we met Rose Marie,
Ursel, Willie, and Ernst-Johann. Dinner lasted at least three
hours with wonderful Thai food and a conversational mix of German and
English. We lamented the fact that we had not done such
gatherings more and everyone said they would make the effort to get
together again, some time, some place. (I can see we will need a
return trip in 2014, if not before.)
A walk back to visitor's cars, goodbyes, and that was it. Until next time, auf Wiedersehen.
Wednesday, December 4th
 Since
our first plane leaves only at 2:30, we enjoyed a slow schedule for
flight day. We drank coffee, did our bit to clean Malinda and
Scott's apartment, finished packing, and were ready in plenty of time
for the 10:30 taxi. We squeezed in four big bags and two large
carry-ons into the smallish car and took a couple of final pictures.
Out
at the airport, things were very quiet, with no check-in lines, no
security lines, and hardly anyone in the lounge. Nuremberg really
is a nice little airport from which to start flying. We noshed a
light buffet lunch and then settled down to normal reading, email,
diaries, "zentangle" and just killing time. We didn't really need
to be at the airport so early, but waiting in the lounge seemed more
promising than hanging around the apartment, worrying if the taxi would
show up, if there would be airport lines, if baggage would be
acceptable, etc.
The plan was for a half-hour flight up to Frankfurt, a leisurely
90-minute connection, and then an 8- to 9-hour trip
over to Washington. Just to make sure we would recognize what we
do and do not have control over, Lufthansa delayed the Nuremberg to
Frankfurt leg for an hour or so. This extended our airport-lounge stay
but made it a bit worrisome flying over the clouds, trying to remember
the path we would need to take at the sprawling Frankfort
terminal. I kept trying to tell myself, that we really had little
to worry about, but that's easier said ...
We did make the plane at Gate Z15 in plenty of time to settle in for
our longish flight. At 17:15 (5:15pm), the wheels came up and we
both realized we were no longer residents of Europe. Germany gave
us a nice sunset for the send-off. Somebody cried.
The
flight United itself was actually pleasant; plenty of room, quiet, a
wide selection of movies and TV, and even the meals seemed upgraded
from our last trips. Nine hours is a long time to sit in a metal
shell, but it's better than the normal 12-hour trip to SFO and in
Washington, the arrival went smoothly. There were not even lines
at Customs and Immigration and the bags appeared almost as soon as we
reached the baggage carousel. This must be the effect of
traveling in the first week of December, a slow travel week.
Friend Steve was there to meet us, a special service for sure. He
drove us home, where Nancy was waiting with drinks, snacks, soup, and
lots and lots of catching up. We will continue the reconnecting
process for a few days, but that is another story.
That's all from Trotter's Grand European Adventure
Regards.
John and Marianne
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