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Tromso - Gateway to the Arctic

October 11, 2001

Tromso, Norway

Dear Fans and Followers,

After our visit to the family village of Balsfjord, we drove into the large, modern city of Tromso, Norway. Tromso is an island connected to both the mainland and, on the other side, to even more islands in this archipelago.

We drove in over the high bridge and headed for the Tourist Information (TI) office. After being away from traffic for many days, it was a real change to be worrying about traffic circles, traffic lights, and pedestrians. But it was worth it to find the TI because we got our bearings for required activities, local maps, and hotel recommendations. We had been warned that this was an expensive town in an expensive country but, with the TI help, we came close to our budgets.

We arrived at the Clarion Hotel, a new, large hotel on the downtown waterfront. Despite our bargain rate, Marianne had certain requirements for the room. She refused the first one and asked for "a room with a view". The manager said he'd try but there were only a few that faced out, but if we could wait for cleaning, he might find something. We took an hour for lunch and came back to find we had a huge suite that even had a dinning area. And of course a view. This was a lesson learned: ask for what you want; it can't hurt.

This was also the hotel manager who ended up spending hours getting us connected to the Internet. We are very grateful for his help as we find that even modern Europe isn't completely prepared for this electronic age, at least not at a cost reasonable outside of a business environment. But, with help, it may be possible.

So now what? First we walked along parts of the waterfront. This is a very active port with boats and ships coming and going all the time. Just in front of the hotel, we have seen Russian fishing trawlers and Norwegian whalers. There has been a steady stream of fishing boats along with ferries and cargo ships of many sizes. Friday evening we will take one of the ferries to the south of Norway.

We spent too much of our time here eating. This always starts with a hotel breakfast buffet - a European practice we've become used to. We add to that a mid-afternoon meal that in Tromso has varied from pizza to a buffet that fully satisfied our need for salmon, herring and other local delights.

Our theory is that we will walk enough to allow this behavior. Maybe. At least we try. On our first evening, we looked out on the high bridge and committed to a walk. The next day, we did that walk and were rewarded with spectacular views from the top toward both the mountains and back into town. It seems like there are spectacular views everywhere we look.

That evening, we tried for one remaining goal, to see the Northern Lights. We had tried other nights in both Finland and here in Tromso but no luck. At first it seemed this night would be no different. We were at the point of turning back to the hotel when the lights appeared. One moment there was nothing and the next there was this dazzling display of moving color. Pictures don't do justice to the sense of awe one gets from this display.

The next day, we started our series of museum tours with a visit to The Polar Museum. It was quite well done with displays of local Arctic life in the last century or two. Marianne liked the cabin tour but it was hard imaging five men living in this hovel but maybe all it needs is a bit of remodel. Another project?

No. Those Norwegians were a lot tougher than this one. Even today, I think life here is challenging. I could not handle the two-month night for example. But there are Norwegians who thrive here and I'm proud to be related to some of them.

Take care. Stay warm.

John and Marianne

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Created October 12, 2001

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