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A Ride Through Papal Vineyards

January 14, 2002

Dear Friends and Family,

I'll let you in on a secret: I'm not happy about our car decision. I'm big. It's small. It causes worry, especially in cities. I worry too much. It's expensive. The original theory was to take advantage of a temporary weakness in the Euro currency and sell the car in Europe after the dollar had sunk back a bit. So far, except for a few days in September, the only sinking has been the Euro. And, sell to whom? Another worry. But every once in awhile, it's the right car at the right time in the right place.

Marianne's favorite French wine is Chateauneuf du Pape. It comes from the region around Avignon and does date back to the period when the Roman Catholic popes had a summer place in the village of Chateauneuf. Like all good dacha owners, they grew staples, in this case grapes for good red wines. The popes eventually returned to Rome, but the tradition of producing quality wine in the area around Chateauneuf remained.

Sunday morning, we retrieved our car from the parking garage under the Palais de Papes and drove out of Avignon. In 20 minutes we were in the vineyards of Chateauneuf du Pape. (Picture #1) Of course we took the top down, although the winter sun was pretty frail. The car is meant to be driven with the top down and our criteria is 5 to 10 C (40-50F) and sun. Spain will be better but this is good enough.

We had heard of the rocky soils of French wine country and we had seen the limestone fields of Burgundy, but the fields around Chateauneuf were straight stones (Picture #2) Wine snobs talk about how struggling vines make good wines and this has to be what they have in mind. The popes must have arranged a special blessing.

On top of the hill above the village are the ruins of what we assume was the pope's dacha. Inside the ruins, the style was the same as we had seen at the Avignon palace the day before. Through the old windows we could enjoy a scene of the Rhone valley that probably had not changed significantly since the Papal Curia relaxed in this same spot.

We walked down into the village and were reminded that this really is off-season. No restaurants were open and to make matters worse, they torture the few stragglers like us by preparing Sunday dinners at homes and sending the smells out into the empty streets. Oh well, it was a wonderful stroll down into town and back to our exclusive parking lot. The Porsche looks at home next to castles.

Returning to Avignon, we took the back roads. Another turn off the beaten path. That's what it's all about. Good news bad news again. The back road was wonderful but...it didn't go to Avignon. That's also what it's all about. Not to worry, we eventually saw the old bridge and the palace and found our way back to our underground parking place.

Nice drive. Nice memories. But still I worry.

Take care and tell us if you know anyone who wants to overpay for a slightly-used Boxster.

John and Marianne

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Created Janaury 25, 2002

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