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Pontremoli
July 11 - 18,
2003
Dear Friends and
Families,
Pontremoli isn't on most
tour guides. I can't remember seeing a half dozen foreign tourists in
a week. The town guide handed out by the tourism center was printed
in 1996, but Pontremoli is a wonderful secret.
The name dates back from
Roman times and refers to a bridge leading into town over the Magra
River. Back then, the bridge was so shaky that the locals called the
place "shaky bridge" (ponte=bridge, tremulous=shakey), but somewhere
along the line, it got properly repaired because it's still in
service almost two thousand years later.
The town is about half very
old and half not-so-old, but everything about it was comfortable and
friendly. We went to church on Sunday and felt comfortable. We
enjoyed three or four of the best restaurant meals of our trip. Most
purchases were greeted with cheerful faces and greetings, even if we
could not always find a language in common.
Add Pontremoli to your
destinations if you want a want a piece of Italian country
life.
John and
Marianne
ps: A local website, all
Italian and a bit limited but, Pontrmoli isn't an international
tourist center!
http://www.lunigiana.com/pontremoli/
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Pontremoli, as seen
from the castle at the end of town. The new town is on the
right side of the river Magra and the old one on the
left.
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The "outer wall" of
the old town is a continuous stretch of buildings. All in
all, the town seemed well-tended and
prosperous.
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The main street of
Pontremoli runs along the inner walls of the buildings in
the previous picture. The kids who walk these streets looked
like kids from almost anywhere, but these old passages must
leave their mark.
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Many of the streets
are even smaller. This one leads to the old "tremulous
bridge."
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We went to mass on
Sunday. The ceremony was both modern and old. For me,
hearing a mass in Italian brought back church rituals of my
childhood when they were celebrated in similar-sounding
Latin.
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We went to the
Saturday market and bought some local cheese and mushrooms.
This area is famous for both.
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This is the old
bridge that gave Pontremoli it's name. I jumped up and down
on it and it seemed pretty sturdy now.
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Our walk up to the
castle. The stone walls could have been there for a
millenium or two.
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Evidence of even
older area residents, these stellae resemble those from
Scotland, Iran, and other places. The exact story is
apparently still being debated, but it is clear evidence
that the Romans were not the first to settle in this
valley.
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The train station.
This was the connection inland to Parma and to the coastal
towns of La Spezia, the Cinque Terre, and
Genoa.
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